All hail kale: The much maligned green veg that has finally become cool

There’s something about eating kale that makes you feel like you’re making good life choices. The ceremony of massaging the deep green leaves with olive oil and tossing them into a salad or baking them into a crisp, guilt-free snack makes kale the most feel-good green around.

Part of the brassica family, which also includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and turnips, kale is high in nutrients.

It’s at its best, and sweetest, in winter, as its defence against cold weather is to produce more sugars. This is why the leaves char and roast so beautifully at high temperatures, all caramelised burnt edges and succulent leaves.

When added to dishes simply for its high nutritional value, the flavour of kale can often be overlooked. But make it the star and you’ll see how kale shines.

Flatbreads filled with kale and potato masala

Stuffed flatbreads are simple to make and forgiving for even the most tentative home cook. You make a simple flatbread dough with flour, water, oil and salt, roll it out, add the filling, pinch it shut and roll it out again, then simply pan-fry and serve for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The warm spices are reminiscent of Indian aloo paratha or Afghan bolani. They are a delicious accompaniment to grilled meats, can be dragged through rich sauces, or simply enjoyed with Greek yoghurt and freshly cracked black pepper.

INGREDIENTS

Flatbread dough

• 200g plain flour
• ½ cup water
• 20ml vegetable oil
• ½ tsp salt

Kale and potato masala filling

• 4 kale leaves
• 1 tbsp butter
• ¼ tsp cumin seeds
• ¼ tsp black mustard seeds
• 1 medium potato, finely diced
• ½ green chilli, finely minced
• ½ tsp ground coriander
• ¼ tsp chilli powder
• 1 spring onion, finely sliced
• salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
• 100g crumbled fresh cheese or grated cheese
• ½ tbsp cooking oil or ghee

METHOD

1. To make the flatbread dough, combine the flour, water, oil and salt in a medium bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. If making by hand, bring the ingredients together to create a shaggy dough, then transfer to a lightly floured bench and knead to a smooth ball. If using a stand mixer, work the dough for 3–4 minutes. Form it into a ball, cover and set it aside to rest for at least 30 minutes while you make the filling.
2. Prepare the kale by cutting either side of the tough stems, removing the leafy part and discarding the stems. Wash the leaves thoroughly, then cut into thin slices and dry them thoroughly in a salad spinner. Set aside.
3. To make the filling, heat the butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add the cumin and mustard seeds and fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
4. Add the potato, green chilli, ground coriander, chilli powder and a pinch of salt and saute, stirring continuously, over medium-high heat until the potatoes become tender. Add the chopped kale and continue to fry until the kale turns bright green and wilts. Stir in the spring onion, then taste the mixture and season with salt and pepper. Ensure the potato and kale are fully cooked and the mixture tastes delicious. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, then stir in the cheese.
5. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions. Lightly oil the bench and roll one piece of dough into a circle about 10cm wide using a rolling pin or a clean wine bottle. Keep the other portions covered while you do this.
6. Place a quarter of the filling in the centre of the round of dough. Pull the dough up and over the filling, pinching the edges together to seal, almost like a dumpling. Be careful not to overstuff. Place the flatbread, sealed side down on the bench, then gently roll it into a circle about 20cm wide. The dough should be quite resilient, but take care not to tear it. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
7. Heat a little oil or ghee in a seasoned cast-iron pan or non-stick frying pan, and fry over medium-high heat for 3–4 minutes, then flip and fry on the other side until the dough is cooked and the flatbread puffs up. The edges should be beginning to crisp.
8. Allow the flatbreads to cool slightly, then tear or cut into pieces and serve.

Makes 4

Stir-fried rice cakes with pork and kale

Traditionally made with shepherd’s purse vegetable, which eats like spinach but looks like dandelion greens, these silky, comforting Shanghainese rice cakes are the perfect vehicle for cavolo nero (Tuscan kale), flat-leafed kale or even thinly sliced curly kale. Chicken stock and a little pork enrich the sauce, but protein is definitely in a supporting role.

INGREDIENTS

Marinated pork

• 150g pork loin, sliced thinly
• 1 tsp Shaoxing wine
• 1 tsp cornflour
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• ½ tsp soy sauce
• ¼ tsp white pepper

To finish the dish

• ½ bunch kale (about 100g)
• 3 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• salt and white pepper to taste
• 400g flat rice cakes – see note
• 250ml (1 cup) chicken stock

METHOD

1. Add the pork and marinade ingredients to a medium bowl, mix thoroughly, and set aside. This technique of coating meat in a cornflour slurry is called velveting, and keeps the pork silky and tender during stir-frying.
2. Cut either side of the tough kale stems, removing the leafy part and discarding the stems. Wash the leaves thoroughly, then cut into thin slices and dry them thoroughly in a salad spinner.
3. Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or large frying pan over high heat until it is shimmering, then add the pork and stir-fry until it is opaque.
4. Add the kale to the pan with the sesame oil, salt and white pepper, and stir-fry over high heat until the kale turns bright green and is just cooked, 2–3 minutes.
5. Add the rice cakes to the pan and stir-fry for another minute. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer, then cover and cook for 3–4 minutes until the rice cakes are tender. Stir to combine and taste for seasoning, adjusting if necessary, and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Note: Look for coin-shaped fresh rice cakes in the fridge or freezer aisles at well-stocked Asian grocers. They’ll be labelled either Chinese nian gao or Korean tteokguk rice cakes.

Kale rolls with spicy merguez sausage and rice

Merguez sausages, delicious North African lamb sausages seasoned with harissa, chilli and cumin, bring pizzazz to this universally loved dish, usually made with cabbage. This recipe makes plenty of juicy rolls, but they freeze beautifully. Pop any excess on a tray, freeze, then transfer to press-seal bags.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 large bunch cavolo nero (Tuscan kale)
• 2 tbsp olive oil, divided
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
• 1 brown onion, finely diced
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 carrot, finely diced
• 1kg Merguez sausages, filling squeezed from their skins
• 1 cup cooked medium or long-grain rice
• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp vegetarian oyster sauce
• 250ml (1 cup) chicken stock
• chilli oil to serve, optional
• ½ bunch chopped chives to serve
• cracked black pepper to serve

METHOD

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil.
2. Separate 12-15 of the largest leaves from the bunch of kale, and drop them into the boiling water, a few at a time. Cook briefly until the leaves turn bright green and are just tender, about 2 minutes, then drain and set aside to dry. Remove the thick spine from the blanched leaves.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a pan over medium-high heat, then add the cumin and chilli flakes. Fry briefly until fragrant, then add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the tomato paste and fry briefly, 20–30 seconds, then add the carrot and continue cooking over medium heat until the carrot is tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
4. In a large bowl, add the sausage mince, rice, egg, soy sauce, vegetarian oyster sauce and cooled carrot and onion mixture and combine well.
5. Place a generous tablespoon or two of the sausage mixture about 2cm from the tip of each kale leaf, then bring the sides over the filling and roll up like a burrito. Repeat with the remaining leaves and set aside.
6. Heat the remaining olive oil in a cast-iron lidded pan over low heat until shimmering, then place the kale rolls in the pan, seam-side down, to brown the bottoms, 4–5 minutes. Flip the rolls carefully, then add enough stock to just cover the base of the pan. Place the lid on the pan and cook the rolls until almost all of the broth has been absorbed. If you like, you can add more stock to create a light sauce.
7. Carefully remove the rolls from the pan. Serve with any remaining pan juices, a drizzle of chilli oil, chopped chives and cracked black pepper. Eat immediately.

Serves 4-6