Gimlet’s Andrew McConnell to take over legendary laneway restaurant Becco, with big plans for the site

A storied site on Melbourne’s Crossley Street, once part of Pellegrini’s but home to Italian restaurant Becco since 1996, has been snapped up by Melbourne’s best-known restaurateur, Andrew McConnell.

Responsible for smash-hits such as Supernormal, Gimlet and Cumulus Inc in the CBD, McConnell’s Trader House group plans to open a new restaurant in the blue-tiled building by late 2025.

“I think Andrew is the perfect person … The legacy of the site is in the best hands it can be,” Becco’s Simon Hartley said.

In the short term, McConnell will open a third location of his popular cafe and grocer, Morning Market, in the space.

A grocery store has been part of the Becco DNA at several points over its lifespan. During the pandemic, half of the restaurant was devoted to produce, a split that has stuck to this day. It’s only fitting, then, that Morning Market will move into the grocery store once paperwork is signed. Becco has not set a date for its final service.

When it opened in late 1996, Becco was the place to be and be seen. Located a stone’s throw from Parliament, its white-clothed tables were the scene of deals over meals of calamari fritti, olive ascolane and roast duck with grappa and muscatels.

Becco was slated to become a Chris Lucas restaurant when its lease ended in July 2021. But the pandemic blindsided Melbourne hospitality and Lucas was unable to get the deal through. Hartley, who planned to find a new site for Becco, instead renewed his lease until 2032. Now, he says, he’s ready to take a break, with plans to surf, spend time with grandchildren before considering his next move.

“I’m going to take some time to relax and consider my next venture, perhaps with some sand between my toes and a longboard under my feet ... It’s been an incredible journey, and I will dearly miss it,” Hartley wrote in an Instagram post announcing the news.

McConnell did not grant an interview but said in a statement that he and wife Jo McGann will work with designers ACME, who crafted the look of his upmarket Russell Street restaurant, Gimlet, and neighbouring bar Apollo Inn, on this next project.

“This is one of the most important heritage restaurant sites in the city,” McConnell is quoted as saying in the statement.

“The dining room has a beautiful soul that reflects its history and the incredible hospitality that has been offered here for over 70 years. We are excited to preserve and continue this legacy whilst bringing new energy to the space.”