Japan’s mischievously decadent sandwich is now world-famous

The dish

Wagyu katsu sando, Japan

Plate up

In Scotland, they took the humble pizza and they deep-fried it. Not exactly gourmet, but an iconic snack nonetheless. In Japan, meanwhile, they took finely marbled wagyu beef and they also deep-fried it, and then stuck it between two wedges of bread, and they created something so luxurious, so mischievously decadent, that it has become famous around the world. Meet the wagyu katsu sando, a dish that is these days a calling card for dealers in fine wagyu across Japan. To make it, a thick, square piece of richly marbled wagyu, some of the most expensive beef in the world, is rolled in flour, egg and panko breadcrumbs and gently deep-fried until just blushing in the middle. That steak is then laid upon sweet, spongey shokupan (Japanese milk bread), topped with a dark, umami-rich sauce, sliced in half and served. It’s tender, fatty, sweet, savoury, and above all just extravagantly delicious.

First serve

This sandwich has been imitated around the world by now, but it has its origins in Japan. Credit for the invention of the wagyu katsu sando (known in Japanese as a gyukatsusando) goes to chef Kentaro Nakahara, who introduced it as part of his high-end wagyu omakase meal at Tokyo yakiniku joint Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara. Perhaps the most famous iteration of the sandwich, however, is made by Wagyumafia, an ultra-high-end, members-only wagyu specialist that began in Tokyo, but now has an outlet in Hong Kong, plus a sandwich bar in Tokyo that’s open to the public.

Order there

Get in early to secure a booking at the OG wagyu sando restaurant, Sumibiyakiniku Nakahara, near Ichigaya station in Tokyo (sumibiyakinikunakahara.com).

Order here