Karen Martini's ragu alla bolognese

September 29, 2022

Karen Martini's inauthentic bolognese ragu with paccheri pasta.William Mepepm

Time:2 hours +Serves:10

Firstly, this is an inauthentic recipe, adjusted over time. This version is based on one my grandmother Grace used to cook. I'm not sure how chicken made it into the recipe. I suspect she used chicken livers (a not-uncommon practice that gives depth of flavour) and one day there were none available so she drafted in minced chicken. The thigh meat contributes texture, so it has remained in my version, too. Like any meat ragu*, this improves over a day or two.

Ingredients

50g unsalted butter
150ml extra virgin olive oil
2 onions, finely diced
6 garlic cloves, finely sliced
3 celery stalks, very finely sliced
100g pancetta, finely diced
300g minced chicken thighs
300g minced pork
900g minced beef
200g tomato paste (concentrated puree)
200ml milk
300ml red or white wine
2 fresh bay leaves
2 sage sprigs, leaves and fine stems chopped
1 sprig rosemary
½ nutmeg, finely grated
1 tsp chilli flakes
2 × 400g can diced tomatoes
1.2 litres chicken stock
pasta (paccheri or similar), freshly cooked, to serve
ricotta or parmigiano reggiano, freshly grated, to serve

Method

1. Heat the butter and 100ml of the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Cook the onion and garlic until softened (about 5 minutes). Add the celery and stir and cook until caramelised, about 15 minutes.
2. Add the pancetta and fry for a minute or two, then add the chicken and pork mince, bit by bit, crumbling it in and stirring through as the meat browns.
3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Add the beef mince and cook until browned (about 10 minutes). Add a bit at a time if there's a danger of crowding the pan at the start.
4. Once the meat is browned in both pans, add the beef to the main pan and combine. Add the tomato paste and stir for a few minutes, then add the milk and simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Once the liquid has almost evaporated, stir in the bay leaves, sage, rosemary, nutmeg and chilli flakes and season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir in the tomatoes and stock, then bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low and cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally.
6. Once the sauce has reduced and the flavours intensified, adjust the seasoning as needed. I like to stir the ragu through freshly cooked pasta and finish with a dollop of fresh ricotta or freshly grated parmigiano reggiano.
Tip: Frying the beef separately allows you to colour the meat without it boiling in its own juices.
*Note: A real bolognese wouldn't have garlic in it, nor chicken, and red wine would never be suggested as an option. But, rightly or wrongly, "bolognese" has become a byword for a meat ragu.