Six of Sydney’s best steak frites for Bastille Day and beyond
From hand-cut chips to shaved truffles and foie gras, Sydney chefs are giving a French classic their own spin in time for Bastille Day and the Paris Olympics.
Steak frites is the most popular dish at Balmain restaurant L’Auberge du Bout du Monde, but that hasn’t stopped French-born chef-owner Dimitri Dominguez from taking it off the a la carte menu.
Instead, the dish has moved to the specials board so Dominguez can experiment with different cuts, cooking techniques and sauces.
“This week we switched our cooking method from the traditional approach to a two-step process: we cook the steak sous-vide at low temperature to ensure it retains all its juiciness … then we sear it on the grill to create that irresistible crust,” Dominguez says.
The dish, a bistro menu staple all over France, pairs steak (historically rump or hanger, but in Australia eye fillet, scotch fillet or porterhouse are more common) with a complementary sauce, and deep-fried shoestring potatoes.
It sounds simple, but the flavour balance needs to be right. When Ned Parker, the head chef at Loulou in Milsons Point, switched from full-flavoured sirloin to an aptly named tenderloin, he amped up the pepper sauce with a mix of white and black Sarawak peppercorns to enhance the steak’s more subtle flavour.
And in Sydney, diners are particular about their potato chips.
“We made our own duck fat chips but everyone asked for shoestring fries,” says Stewart Parsons, co-owner of Bronte Road Bistro in Waverley.
So McCain Shoestring Superfries it was. “They love them, so that’s what we serve them.”
Six steak frites to try
Here’s where to try steak frites for Bastille Day (July 14), or during the Paris Olympics, which start on July 26.
L’Auberge du Bout du Monde
What: An ever-changing steak frites special from French-born and trained chef, Dimitri Dominguez. Lean cuts, such as fillet mignon, are cooked medium rare, while fattier cuts, like entrecote, take longer to develop flavour. Dominguez recommends a robust sauce.
How much: This week’s special is a 200g eye fillet steak, cooked medium rare, with marchand de vin sauce and thin-cut fries ($45).
The je ne sais quoi: Planning a date night? The restaurant is dimly lit, filled with charm, and serves camembert fondu (baked camembert) to share ($36).
358 Darling Street, Balmain, laubergeduboutdumonde.com.au
Bronte Road Bistro
What: Grass-fed Rangers Valley Black Market sirloin (MB5+) is seared on a thick flat-top grill, so it develops a good crust without becoming overcooked. It’s served with Cafe de Paris butter and shoestring fries.
How much: $58.
The je ne sais quoi: The small, neighbourhood bistro has been serving fuss-free French fare since 2008, and offers bright outdoor seating, kids menus and home delivery.
282 Bronte Road, Waverley, bronteroadbistro.com.au
Ursula’s
What: In Paddington, Ursula’s owner-chef Phil Wood is delving deep into French classics during the Paris Olympics. Rather than a simple steak frites, he’s serving a decadent beef Rossini. The 180g Grasslands beef fillet is pan-fried with a pepper crust and topped with foie gras (shaving of fresh black truffle optional). Madeira sauce is poured tableside.
How much: Beef Rossini is $61 (or $72 with truffles), plus $13 for fries. It’s available from July 23 to August 10.
The je ne sais quoi: Wood’s regular menu gives steak frites an Australian accent. The 200g Grasslands beef fillet ($56) is served with XO and roasted macadamia sauce.
92 Hargrave Street, Paddington, ursulas.com.au
Armorica
What: There’s a slew of different cuts, including O’Connor grass-fed Black Angus flat iron steak and a Stone Axe full-blood wagyu scotch fillet, cooked on the wood-fired Josper grill and served with bone marrow butter, bearnaise or mushroom sauce. For the best of both worlds, general manager Geraint Coles recommends the T-bone: “Fattier strip loin on one side, decadent fillet on the other.”
How much: The steaks range from $37 to $260. French fries, served with whipped garlic and parmesan, are $10.
The je ne sais quoi: On Bastille Day weekend they’ll have a live jazz band and a $105 three-course menu, which includes beef fillet with sauce Perigueux (madeira and truffles) and French fries.
490 Crown Street, Surry Hills, armorica.com.au
Loulou
What: The restaurant’s best-selling steak frites is also available to serve two. The kitchen uses tenderloin (single size) and onglet (double size), with a classic sauce au poivre spiked with cognac.
How much: $64 for one serve, or $90 for two, including French fries.
The je ne sais quoi: Steak frites are cheaper at lunchtime when the bistro serves its $70 two-course set menu.
61 Lavender Street, Milsons Point, loulou.sydney
Bistro St Jacques
What: Redfern’s Bistro St Jacques cuts its chips by hand using sebago potatoes, the only restaurant on this list to take a DIY approach. Try the thick-cut chips with a Cape Grim eye fillet, Cafe de Paris butter and red wine jus.
How much: $60 including sauce and fries.
The je ne sais quoi: The chic neighbourhood bistro offers BYO wine on Wednesday nights, and lunch specials Thursday to Sunday (two courses $65, three courses $85).
96 Pitt Street, Redfern, bistrostjacques.com.au
Bianca Hrovat – Bianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.