Step aside, Santorini: A new island siren is sizzling

On the island’s northern tip in tranquil Pollonia is boutique hotel Delmar Apartments & Suites. Spacious and bo-ho chic, the distinctly cycladic rooms are tactile with wooden and linen materials, whitewashed walls and balcony daybeds that receive a sea breeze. A highlight is its Greek breakfast of fresh fruit, feta omelettes and yoghurt smoothies, doorstep-delivered each morning. Then it’s just a stroll to the beach or the cluster of sand-side tavernas such as farm-to-fork Enalion restaurant and Greek designer-centric clothing store Vanilla Gold. See delmar.gr

The boat tour

Some of the best swimming spots here are accessible only by water. Eschew the large tour boats and splash out on a five-hour self-drive speedboat – even better, invest an extra €50 ($80) for a skipper. So instead of driving, you can simply soak up the south coast and dive into Kleftiko, a dazzling aqua world with clear water, white cliffs and caves featuring purple and gold tints. Explore the surreal abandoned sulphur mine at Paliorema beach, studded with yellow pebbles, and drop anchor at remote Gerakas Beach. See asteriasboats.gr

The restaurant

At Astakas restaurant cafe, you can happily kill two birds with one stone. The freshest grilled octopus and squid, fava hummus, shrimp pasta or sea bass comes with a free side of Milos’ signature sight: the syrmаtа, or picturesque fishermen cottages of Klima. The yellow, green, red and blue painted buildings were identifiable beacons for homeward seafarers and are mid-meal eye candy. Pick your fish from the fresh-catch fridge, and for a waterside seat, go at lunch or book ahead for a sunset dinner. No website, see Facebook.

The village

If you close your eyes for a moment and imagine what a traditional Greek chora (main town) should look like, it’s (mostly) car-free Plaka. The clifftop streets of Plaka, the original island capital, are a labyrinth of lanes where felines slink, the buildings are meticulously white-washed, the shutters painted blue and the bougainvillea seemingly always in bloom. It’s the perfect place to get lost at dusk when the restaurants and bars spring to life.

The sunset viewpoint

In this part of the world, sunsets are an event – fiery magma explosions with the impact of a Zeus thunderbolt. Hordes head to Plaka’s Panagia Korfiatissa church with a to-go cocktail from nearby Utopia cafe in hand. But if selfie-sticks in the face isn’t your thing, find sunset solitude at the tiny Prophet Elias holy chapel. A 10-minute hike through an ancient olive grove near the delightful village of Tripiti and up a rocky staircase to a cliffside perch will offer a box seat for Mother Nature’s big show. Same sunset, no crowds.

The archaeological site

The island’s most famous archaeological treasure is on a permanent holiday in Paris – Venus de Milo, also known as Aphrodite of Melos, resides in the Louvre – but showstoppers such as the Roman Theatre remain. The ancient world seems a finger-click away as you roam the stage or orchestra pit with sparkling Milos Bay as a backdrop, or sit among the rows of carefully restored marble. Recently renovated, it holds 700 people (the original held 7000) and the incredible acoustics can be appreciated during summer performances.

One more thing

The strategic location that made Milos popular with traders and pirates is an advantage to island hoppers. It’s just 90 minutes by ferry to Paros or two hours to Santorini. Even closer (40 minutes) is quieter neighbour Sifnos, considered the “foodie” island by gourmet loving locals and one for the hit list.

Flip Byrnes travelled as a guest of Blue Star Ferries and Delmar Apartments & Suites.