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Terry Durack

Terry Durack

Chief restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald

Terry Durack is the chief restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald and Good Food.

A dish at Soluna Dining in North Sydney.
14/20

The new metro will take you to North Sydney in a flash. First stop, this fancy 260-seat diner

Large, light-filled Soluna is the flagship venue at the new precinct, joining cosy bakery cafe Sol Bread & Wine, boutique food store Una, and slinky modern Japanese spot Genzo.

  • Terry Durack
Duck a l’orange, the slices of rosy pink breast lapped by an orange scented glaze.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16.5/20

This two-hatted wine bar has had a French makeover – but does it have that je ne sais quoi?

Remember the days of silver service, candlelight and duck a l’orange? Well, they’re back, and we’re here for it.

  • Terry Durack
20 Chapel
Good Food hat15/20

‘There’s no restaurant quite like it’: Is that a good thing at this ex-Rockpool chef’s new steakhouse?

A mix of local grittiness, fine-dining refinement and sizzle, Corey Costelloe’s 20 Chapel is hard to categorise, easy to like, and feels right for its time.

  • Terry Durack

You might think you’re ‘helping’, but leave the plate-stacking to the professionals

When empty plates disappear without you even realising, you’re in good hands. However, we don’t always make it easy for waitstaff.

  • Terry Durack
Head chef Yusuke Morita at work preparing sushi with his wife Izumi.
Good Food hat15/20

This tiny six-seater is the size of a bento box, but it packs a wasabi-like punch

One of Sydney’s tiniest restaurants, Kisuke delivers a larger-than-life omakase experience.

  • Terry Durack
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Good Food hat15/20

Fine dining meets fusion at this ‘slightly otherworldly’ Circular Quay showpiece

Former Aria chef Daeun Kang’s fusion of French and Japanese cooking plays out on every plate at the luxurious Oborozuki.

  • Terry Durack

How hot does it need to be to fry an egg on a car bonnet or cook a toastie on an engine?

From fancy cars to dishwashers, there’s no end to human ingenuity when it comes to unusual cooking methods.

  • Terry Durack
Good Food hat15/20

Icon review: Why one of Sydney’s oldest Indian restaurants is also one of its hottest

After 35 years in business, proud pan-Indian pioneer Abhi’s is still going strong.

  • Terry Durack
Whiting parma (top left) and campanelle pasta carbonara with house-cured kingfish collar (centre).
14/20

Bet you’ve never had a parma or a carbonara like these before, Sydney

What was fine-diner The Gantry at Pier One Sydney Harbour hotel is now a simpler affair, but the comfort food has more to it than you might expect.

  • Terry Durack
Lemon tiramisu at Nico in Cammeray.
14.5/20

This neighbourhood Italian adds a dash of lemony sunshine to winter (and tiramisu)

With its Amalfi-inspired aperitivi, focaccia and pasta, Nico is a mood-lifting place to hibernate.

  • Terry Durack