I return to this dish often during the autumn and winter months; there’s nothing quite as warming or comforting as classic Chinese mapo tofu served over steaming white rice.
This version, which harnesses the flavour of shiitake mushrooms, is vegan as opposed to the classic version, which includes minced pork. Sichuan pepper imparts a tingly pepperiness, while soft tofu is the delicate, custardy equaliser, balancing out all the big flavours and textures.
Dial the spiciness up or down with the chilli oil, but don’t skimp on the doubanjiang (fermented broad bean paste): it’s what makes this dish special.
600ml water
25g dried shiitake mushrooms
3 tbsp neutral oil (avocado or rice bran oils are examples)
4 dried chillies
2 tbsp doubanjiang (fermented broad bean paste)
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 tbsp ginger, peeled and grated
50g fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed and caps cut into 3-4 slices
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp toasted sesame oil
1 tsp ground Sichuan pepper
¼ tsp Chinese five-spice powder
400g soft (but not silken) tofu, dried and cut into 2-3cm dice
1 tbsp cornflour whisked into 3 tbsp cold water
2 tsp Lao Gan Ma chilli sauce* (or more if you like your food spicy)
½ cup spring onions, white and green parts thinly sliced
steamed white rice, to serve
½ cup fresh coriander, loosely packed, to serve
Combine the water with the dried shiitakes in a pot over low heat. Simmer for 15 minutes and then strain, reserving the stock. Slice the shiitake into fine strips and set aside.
Heat a wok or large sautee pan over high heat. Add the oil and the chillies and fry until toasted (just a few seconds). Add the bean paste, garlic, ginger and fresh shiitake mushrooms and sizzle for another minute.
Add about 500ml of the mushroom stock, soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, sesame oil, Sichuan pepper, Chinese five spice and the sliced (formerly dried) shiitakes. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add the diced tofu. Bring to a simmer again and then gently mix in the cornflour slurry; stir. The mixture will thicken as it simmers. It should be thick enough to coat the tofu and mushrooms but not be gloopy. If necessary, add a little more of the mushroom stock.
Finally, stir through the Lao Gan Ma, then remove from heat.
Serve over steamed white rice and garnish with the sliced spring onion and coriander.
* This is a particular brand of crispy chilli oil that I like to use and is widely available.
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